Richard had read a few websites about Glenveagh Park and was excited to go see it. We had also read about a place called "The Poisoned Glen" and wanted to see that as well. As the weather in Donegal can be fairly grey, we weren't surprised to wake up and see grey skies. But grey skies over intense green and shrouded mountains make for a feeling of peace and timelessness.
This was the view of the Clady River across from An Chuirt.
Somewhere behind that cloud is the famous Mt. Errigal. It is the tallest (2,464 ft) mountain in Donegal and was voted 'Ireland's Most Iconic Mountain' by Walking & Hiking Ireland in 2009. After encountering it several times over two days, I can well understand why.
|
Dunlewey Church |
We were hoping we could find The Poisoned Glen before we arrived at Glenveagh Park but we missed the turnoff. Never mind, we had another day to find it. Glenveagh Park is a designated Special Area of Conservation and Special Protection Area under EU and Irish Law. It is actually the second largest national park in Ireland. Its history isn't a kind one. The original owner, John Adair, an Irish-American businessman, evicted 244 of his tenant farmers in 1861 for objecting to his hunting on their farms. He cleared 12,000 acres. So, although Glenveagh is very beautiful, tranquil--and empty--today, I can't help thinking of all of those families who were forced to find other homes.
|
Very nice cafe at Visitor Centre |
|
A fairy village in the window |
|
Castle Gardens |
|
View of Visitor Center |
|
After a long, steep, climb, really enjoyed this view of the Castle |
This scene reminded me very much of being in Varenna in Lake Como. So beautiful. I chose not to do a tour of the Castle, preferred to be outdoors.
|
A wild country. But I still feel such sadness for the tenants who were thrown off their land.
After we visited Glenveagh, we travelled a few more kilometers along the road and visited an art studio. The paintings were rather "odd" modern, not really to our taste but we enjoyed chatting with the gardener who took great pride in pointing out all of his plantings. He even gave us a plant to take home with us!
I was still determined to find the Poisoned Glen. After a few wrong turns, Richard suggested I continue my journey alone while he returned to our hotel. Being alone sometimes works magic, I found the right road just a few kilometers later. After bumping down a very, very narrow road, I came across a deserted church. Not seeing any more road, I parked and walked across from the church. Then I saw the path and after following it for a few minutes, there was the Poisoned Glen. Beautiful.
Mount Errigal still refused to show its summit.
I had thought of going to a ceilidh that night but the roads around Gweedore are so narrow and dark that I chickened out. So we just had a good dinner and then an evening of reading and thinking about all that I had seen.
|
Comments
Post a Comment